So . . .
the beginnings of :
top - inlet / fill hose
bottom - outlet to collector / "header" tank
Each tank is separately fillable and can be shut off in the event some water is suspect.
Inlets are behind lockable doors to prevent tampering.
This one is for filling the front tank (250L) and for an inlet hose when parked in a caravan park so it can be operated from mains water. It allows the hose to be connected and then the door shut and locked over the hose so it cannot be tampered with.
Same item from the inside. The main filler hose is covered with corrugated flexible PVC hose. The tank fill hose is from "beverage tube" (clear plastic hose) 25mm diam. which has a tendency to buckle and flatten when curved around things which the close fitting flexible cover prevents.
You can also see the pressure reduction valve for reducing mains pressure , about 1200kPa, down to about 400kPa before letting it loose on all the internal plumbing.
An appropriate hole is cut in the underfloor to let all the pipes through.
The cupboard kick rail will cover it all up when the cupboards are installed.
The tank outlet hose is taken out to a pipe which runs along under the floor on the outside to a header tank which is currently being made. This pipe will need to be insulated when going into cold climates although the plastic will resist bursting better than metal when it is sub-zero.
At the other end the "grey-water" tank filling and draining system is complete.
This arrangement allows for :
1) all grey water to be collected for later disposal (up to 150 L)
2) the tank to emptied when convenient
3) the grey water to be directed immediately to the dump valve without entering the tank (as when in a caravan park with drain facilities).
On the inlet side the water pump has been positioned and connected.
This involved moving the toilet cassette system slightly but allowed a much more convenient arrangement for all the pipes and hoses involved.
The plumbing system is now complete up to the point where the shower and kitchen sink will be installed and connected so it's back to the gas system.
First we need a roll of soft copper tube of the correct size and Australian Standard specification.
This needs the ends "flared" to suit the connector fittings
which is done with a tool like this
A hole is then cut in the side of the gas cylinder box like so
and the copper tube fed through
and behind the toilet and through the tiny hole seen at the right into the front of the hot water system
Another length is led out through the bottom of the box
and into a plastic tube as protective cover and then through the inside of a chassis tube (the plastic stops metal to metal contact which could eventually be dangerous)
and then up through the floor (necessary holes are yet to be cut here, the floor piece has been temporarily removed, also the toilet has been moved temporarily to other the side while work is done on the hot water system, it's sitting in the middle of the shower at the moment . . .)
The plastic tube will be cut back to length when the stove is installed so the copper inside can be connected.
Still waiting on the proposed specification for the "remote area power system" (RAPS) to be completed.
This is a combination of generator, solar panels, charger, 24vDC batteries, 12vDC reduction transformer and inverter for 240vAC which provides for all the necessary power requirements to either be independent of (when unavailable) or complementary to mains power (when available).
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