While it's really tempting to hang a door just to see what it looks like I keep remembering that it will be embedded in the dreaded silicone and I wont be able to just take it off and put it back as I like so I guess it's do the stuff which should be done first.
So paint all the metal work on the doors so they will be properly sealed when the trim and silicone goes on.
And while there is a perfectly good door just begging to be riveted in place I really need to finish off the door openings first.
So out with the masking tape and work my way round from one end to the other . . .
Paint all the exposed metal and wait at least one day for the paint to harden a little.
I am using a "hammer finish" silver.
I tried a white to be in keeping with the rest of the "house" but it didn't look all that good at all. The hammered finish covers a multitude of minor imperfections that I keep telling myself "wont be noticed by the end of the week".
Now all the gaps between the trim around the openings and the inner sealing surface for the doors needs to be filled as well.
This process of making a nice joint in a corner with silicone seems to be some sort of arcane art that I am only beginning to master.
With much advice from friends (and sometimes I think enemies :)) I think I may have found a combination of operations that does the job . . .
I just don't seem to be able to get an even enough bead to just apply it and leave it so I have decided to tape every thing . . .
Surprisingly this only adds about $2.50 to the total cost and sped up the job immensely.
So this is my method:
Tape it all up and apply a decent bead of silicone into the corner
Wipe it firmly into place
Peel off all the tape and excess silicone
and finally (I have Sich to thank for this little tip)
spray the area with "Spray and Wipe" and then carefully run your finishing tool (generally a finger) over the area.
The Spray and Wipe prevents the silicone sticking to any surface it is not already adhered to so a nice smooth finish can be obtained without smearing it all over the place.
Works for me . . .
But again will need 24 hours to set off reasonably so back to the doors and fitting the handles . . .
There seems no way round it but I will have to make a striker plate to go into the door frame so that the lock will have something to catch on.
The door frame is just too thick to allow the mechanism to reach behind the side frame which is where I want to fit it.
The bottom of the bay door opening has been kept as flat as possible to allow things to slide in and out easily (necessary as the openings are both high and narrow) and I don't want anything to catch on in the opening.
This is a small penalty incurred from using the fibreglass/ply covering which adds another 7mm to thickness.
And just in case it wasn't clear . . .
the handle in the closed position
and in the open position
So now I have to start drilling holes in all the doors I have just finished covering.
I think a test case is in order . . .
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